18 May 2014

How to Make A Custom Sized Shoe Pattern: Part 2

This tutorial is part two on how to make a custom fit shoe pattern. For part one, click HERE. For this next part, we are going to measure the front of your foot. This is to account for the fact that toes have depth as well as width and length. The problem I have had in the past is not accounting for the depth and having a painful "breaking in" process while my toes are pinched before the fabric has the opportunity to break in and stretch to accommodate this. I think this area is called the "toe box." To account for this in your pattern, make a few lines on both you pattern and your foot as seen below. You can place your foot over the sole tracing to make sure the marks are in the same spot.

Now, using the string, measure the distance from the center tick line to the pinky toe edge of your foot, making sure to allow the string to curve around the end of your toes.

Copy this mark onto the pattern.

Repeat for all 5 marks along the toe line. The end result will look something like this:
Now draw an approximate line connecting these marks. If one is further out than another, use the further out one to make sure there is plenty of room for your toes!

Next, draw a line that is tangential to the back of your heel, and perpendicular to the lines extended back.

Measure your heel like shown below:

Mark the spot starting from the outside of the pattern to the inside on both sides, there should be a small gap in the middle.

Now the basic piece is complete. If you want, you can add a simple circle/oval freehand from each of these marks around the ankle mark/area to make a pattern that should completely cover your foot. This would not result in a wearable shoe exactly, but will make an excellent base pattern for altering to make other styles of shoes. To make a simple ballet flat style, you can follow the final instructions I will post tomorrow.

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